Sly Clyde releases margarita-inspired cider
By Jim Roberts
Releasing a lime-flavored cider in the middle of a July heat wave wasnât just a sly moveâit was a Sly Clyde move.
âThe idea was just to be a summer refresher,â said Patrick Smith, who succeeded Brent Miles as Sly Clyde Ciderworksâ head cider-maker in February. âIt kind of worked out well that we released it right in time for this heat wave.â
Unlike Sly Clydeâs other ciders, most of which are sweetened with cane sugar, the flavor for âLime of the Ancient Marinerâ comes from wild heirloom agave nectar. âItâs kind of somewhat inspired by a margarita,â Smith said, âin the sense that itâs got a lime flavorâa lot of citrusy character from it.â
Feedback so far has been âoverwhelmingly positive.â âEverybody seems to really enjoy it,â Smith said. âIn fact, we had a couple that already were telling me: âYou can never get rid of this.â Itâs their favorite thing. We get a lot of that.â
Smith, an Army brat who grew up mostly in Fredericksburg, earned a bachelorâs degree at Virginia Tech and a masterâs at Virginia Commonwealth University before settling in Louisville, Kentucky, where he owned a craft beer bar and founded Mile Wide Beer Co. He eventually burned out. âThe beer scene changed a lot over the past decade,â he said, âand I just was losing inspiration and kind of ready to move on.â
He took a cider production course at Cornell Universityâstudying under the world-renowned Peter Mitchellâand worked briefly as an insurance adjuster in Florida before returning to Virginia for the job at Sly Clyde. âIt only took me a few months sitting behind a desk,â he said, âto realize I needed to get back into what I do best.â
 While the science of fermentation is the same, Smith said the difference between making beer and cider is that the art comes on the back end. âIn cider-making,â he said, âwe ferment to total dryness and then add a little bit of sweetness back in to make it palatableâor to whatever your desired sweetness level is.â
At Sly Clydeâs, that sweetness level is lower than some customers expect. In other words: Donât expect an overpowering flavor like a McKenzieâs Hard Cider.
âI definitely aim for more on the side of subtlety than âpound you in the face with whatever the flavor is supposed to be,ââ Smith said. âWe want it to be present, but we donât want it to be overpowering. We work very hard to have clean, efficient fermentations, and we want you to be able to taste the fermented flavor of the apple because it truly is unique.â
 The Sly Clyde staff has had to educate some customers who have expected their ciders to taste more like apple juice.
âWine doesnât taste like grape juice,â Smith said. âYouâre creating some characteristics and some body some complexities through the fermentation, and we want that that to shine throughâeven in the flavored onesâbut we also donât want it to be so subtle as to not be present. So itâs always a balancing act.â
 Itâs an exciting time to be in the cider industryâand especially at Hampton Roadsâ only dedicated cidery. âI feel like itâs a little bit more wide open,â Smith said. âThereâs less structure; thereâs less categorization. Itâs almost like the early days of the craft beer scene, where itâs just like, âLetâs try different things and be free to experiment.â ⌠Iâve been really enjoying just kind of trying different things, trying different pairings that maybe wouldnât work well with beer, but I have a medium now that we can try those kind of things out.â
Sly Clyde Ciderworks is located at 207 E. Mellen St. in the Phoebus section of Hampton. The cider will celebrate its one-year anniversary on Aug. 24. For more information, visit SlyClyde.com or call 757-755-3130.